As many of you know from my last post, we are saying sayonara to our life in Tokyo. In a month we will be relocating to Denver, Colorado. It will be quite an adjustment living in the U.S. again, but before I have to deal with that transition, I’m trying to take in all that I can here in Tokyo. Just yesterday, I was walking around our neighborhood thinking about how difficult this move is going to be. I feel like I became an adult in Tokyo. That may sound silly being that 30 is just around the corner for me. I should have already done that growing up thing, right? But it’s true. Leaving everything familiar for a life on this island called Japan took more growing up than I have ever had to do. And I am grateful for that.

I’ve been trying to think of what I will miss the most when our time here is through. The list is endless, really. I’ll miss the produce vending machines that are filled with locally grown vegetables daily, the train station and its surrounding restaurants and shops, our cozy little apartment that we’ve made into a home…and the food. Yes, of course the food.

Shortly after hearing that we would be moving, Brad and I decided to make dinner with ingredients that will be difficult if not impossible to find (or afford) in Denver. This donburi is what came of our findings. Salmon and kanpachi sashimi with creamy uni (sea urchin) piled over homemade sushi rice. Simple yet indulgent. And definitely not something we will frequently eat after our move.

Yes, we are making the most of our last weeks in Tokyo. And also growing more and more anxious for the next chapter. There is some exciting news on that front; we bought a house! It’s a definite fixer-upper, but we are so thrilled to have a home that will be all ours. We will be spending a lot of time renovating the interior of the home and truth be told I’m quite happy about this project. It’s amazing to think that in the next couple of months we will be going from life based on walking, trains, bicycles and apartment living to a house, backyard, and cars. Yikes.

A few days ago I was headed to the grocery store. This seems like a simple enough task, right? Well, these days it involves getting the stroller packed up with a diaper bag, rain cover, and baby, plus making sure there is still room in the bottom to put grocery bags to bring home. All of this I can deal with. No problem. On this particular day, however, Riley decided he was going to hate every moment of being in his stroller. Usually, he fusses when I initially strap him in, then calms down once we get moving and he has things to look at.

About 10 minutes into this particular walk, after lots of crying, I had to stop to calm him down on a quiet residential side street. I must have looked pretty stressed out, because an older lady who lived on the street came outside and motioned for me to give her the baby. This is going to sound strange, but I handed him over without a second thought. If I had been anywhere else, I wouldn’t have done that. But she was so sweet and grandmotherly.

And I was pretty sure I could outrun her if I needed to.

It’s hard to explain the stress that goes along with a screaming child. Especially in public. Especially when you don’t know what the problem is. I was glad to have an extra set of hands to give me a moment to breathe.

Did I mention I also had Callie the dog with me?

It just so happens that traveling with an infant is not super easy in Kyoto. Unlike Tokyo, Kyoto is lacking in public restrooms with changing tables or convenient places to nurse. Tokyo is so baby-friendly that we didn’t really think twice about it being anything but a breeze in Kyoto. Let’s just say we learned a few lessons on this trip. Some of these tips are Japan-specific while others are applicable no matter where you are traveling.

• Be ready to be a MacGyver diaper changer! Bring a changing pad that you can easily unfold and use anywhere, even outdoors or on a bathroom floor. Trust me on this. Also, bring some antibacterial wipes to wipe off the side of the pad that touches the floor. I’m sure it doesn’t clean it completely, but it helps!
• Be armed and ready! A little more about changing- make sure to be armed with plenty of diaper cream since you never know how long it will be before you can find a good changing location. This will help keep baby more comfortable and calm until you can find a good spot.
• Eat on the floor. The tatami floor, that is. Look for non-smoking restaurants with tatami rooms. That way, you can set baby down on the floor where they can play/nap while you eat. We did this twice on the trip and it was wonderful. Just make sure to ask for a table for 3 so you have the extra space.
• Take a load off. Bring at least 2 baby carriers (NOT a stroller if you can help it- they are not convenient on the train and Kyoto is not exactly a stroller friendly city when you’re site seeing). We only brought one (Baby Bjorn) and by the end of the trip it made both of our backs sore- we could have used one that distributed weight a bit differently to give other muscles a break. I would have liked to have the Moby Wrap in addition to the Bjorn because it takes up very little space. Also, if your baby is old enough, have him face out in the carrier if possible for some of the time. Riley LOVED looking around at the sights and people on the trip. This kept him happy and entertained.
• Sleep, my child. Sleep. Stick to the normal bedtime routine. Riley has been going to sleep around 7pm and we stayed with that in Kyoto. We made sure to be back at the hotel by 6:30pm at the latest so we were ready to read a story and do one last feeding before 7pm. He was out like a light every night. We usually got some sort of take-out and ate in the room. With the iPhone fireplace app. And we whispered until we were ready to go to bed. It was really wonderful, actually…
• Wait, is that a famous baby? Plan for random “fans” stopping you every 5 minutes if you have a baby that does not look Japanese. Some will want to take a photo of your baby, others will actually want to hold him/her. So be ready!

• No, you do not need 5 pairs of shoes. Pack everything your baby needs first. With whatever room you have left, pack what you need. Keep your packing as light as possible. I stuck with black leggings paired with cotton/knit tops that were easy and light to pack, plus 2 pairs of shoes: boots for walking and boots for rain. I kept the colors consistent- mostly black and white- and accented with a bright scarf. Easy and definitely not pajamas. Which is what I tend to wear as a stay at home mom.

• Prepare for the worst. One evening, we went out and managed to forget a change of clothes for Riley. Of course he would make the biggest mess of his life when that happened. Yep, whatever you’re imagining it probably happened. NEVER forget these things: extra clothes, diapers, wipes, pacifier, a toy or two for entertainment, tissues, and hand disinfectant. Everything else you can survive without. But these things are crucial.
• Relax. Remember that sometimes you won’t have control over a situation. There will be crying at inopportune times and many other mishaps that you could not foresee. Do what you need to do to take care of your little one and don’t worry about the rest.

Despite some difficulties, we had a wonderful time and Riley did a fantastic job. He was perfectly happy hanging out and taking in the sights and sounds. We were able to see the bamboo forest in Arashiyama, the Iwatayama Monkey Park, Fushimi Inari Shrine, and Nishiki Market. Pretty decent, I’d say! We got some great photos and made some wonderful memories as a new family of 3.

The most difficult place we went was Fushimi Inari Shrine. It is just a short train ride from Kyoto Station, but we didn’t realize that there was very little else as far as restaurants/places to change and feed Riley. I ended up finding a sunny bench to sit and feed him, which worked just fine. There was a bathroom in the train station where we were able to change him, but we had already wandered around for at least 20 minutes before that searching for anything. Even a non-smoking restaurant where we could sit and order something and perhaps do a McGyver change. That was both a wonderful and very stressful visit…

But we got to eat these glorious handmade inarizushi while we sat on our bench:

Are there any baby travel tips you would add to the list? I’m always looking for more!

I left the house twice this week while still wearing my slippers. Wait, it gets better. I didn’t even realize it until I was already walking down the street. Um, where did my brain go? Also, last week I put a bag of freshly cut lettuce, which I intended to use for lunches all week, in the freezer. Do you know what happens to lettuce when you freeze it? It turns brown and slimy when it thaws. Given these recent events, you may be thinking that I am the last person who should be in possession of anything sharp, pointy, and potentially dangerous.

Well, buckle up. Because I just bought an authentic Japanese knife.
That’s right! After nearly 4 years of living in here, I finally purchased the one thing I knew I couldn’t leave Japan without. While we were in Kyoto’s Nishiki Market last week, I wandered into Aritsugu, a shop specializing in authentic Japanese knives. I gazed longingly at the beautiful blades on the various knives and watched as 2 employees expertly sharpened and polished blades, making it look effortless. Aritsugu also sells various kitchen utensils, like hand pounded steel pans and hand made copper graters. I probably walked around the tiny space for about 20 minutes just staring and coveting various items before deciding that this is where I wanted to buy my own knife.

After discussing the various knives and their uses with a shop worker, I decided on one that was more or less “all-purpose”, called  ryoba-usuba-santokugata. With the exception of cutting through very hard materials like bones, this knife can be used for just about anything. I had two choices when it came to the way the blade was made. The traditional way, made with carbon steel which looks beautiful but can easily become rusty, or the updated version which is made with carbon steel and wrapped in stainless. I debated this decision for a while and decided to get the traditional version, even though it means taking meticulous care of the blade. And besides, when a knife is known for being made in the same way that Japanese swords have been made for centuries, they must be doing something right! I was given very clear instructions on how to care for the blade, including cleaning and sharpening it. The gentleman who helped me was super duper helpful. I kind of wish I could just have him around to care for all of my knives forever.
To make things even better, Aritsugu does complimentary engravings on knives or other applicable purchases. In addition to the knife, I bought a small copper grater. Each blade of the grater is made by hand and is extremely sharp. It is perfect for grating ginger, garlic, wasabi, or citrus zest. Both the grater and the knife were engraved with our last name. The knife was done in katakana (ホワイト) while the grater is our character in kanji (白).

This experience alone made the trip to Kyoto completely worth it. I’m sure there are other shops in little known alleys in Tokyo where I could have gone, but this seemed to fit. I’ve used the knife several times and with each and every cut I am amazed at the perfect balance of the knife in my hand and the ease with which I can cut. It almost makes me want to cut and chop all day! In fact, the first time I cut a carrot, I couldn’t stop talking about how smooth the cut was. I just kept running my finger over the cut side in complete and utter amazement.

Yes, I may be easily amused.

This is truly the greatest knife I have ever used. And despite my brainless behavior detailed at the beginning of this post, I am being very careful. Promise.

Hello from Kyoto! We have been enjoying a few days here on our first family vacation. I’ll be posting in more detail in a few days, but I wanted to give you a sneak peek at what we’ve been up to. Enjoy and keep an eye out for more!

It smells like spring outside. Fragrant ume blossoms brighten the once bare branches of the plum trees. The bright pink and white flowers are a welcome bright contrast to the black bark. Their scent is so intoxicating and wonderful. I remember this time last year. We had spent a weekend out walking around enjoying the late February blossoms, having no idea that in a few days we would experience 3.11. In hindsight, I’m glad such a beautiful memory was made before such a sad one. The stark contrast of the two experiences reminds me of how quickly life changes. And how holding on to the memories of happy moments helps us cope when life seems grim.

The plum blossoms are blooming now in Tokyo, but there is still a bit of winter chill in the air. I’m still craving soups and warm drinks to keep me warm, but I’m looking for ways to add a little spring into my recipes. You may remember last week when I posted a recipe for ginger honey. Today’s recipe uses that honey to make a delicious, comforting mug of warm milk. There is a restaurant that we go to with Callie the dog (yes, they allow dogs inside the restaurant) and I almost always order this drink. It is called Ginger Honey Milk Tea…or something similar…and it is divine. The spicy ginger adds a welcome brightness to the honey and the creamy milk. There is nothing like it coupled with their house made crumpets.

I decided to add a little extra flavor with what will probably be the last yuzu of the season by adding the zest to the milk. You could just as easily use lemon or orange instead. There is no real “recipe” to post, but here’s the basic idea: simply put milk in a saucepan with the citrus zest and heat until steaming (don’t boil!) and add the honey. You can add extra raw ginger with the citrus zest for an extra kick, which I really like. Just pour the milk through a strainer into a mug, breath deeply, and enjoy. At the end of a long day, after Riley has gone to sleep, this ginger honey milk tea with yuzu is the perfect way to wind down. I just know you’ll love it.

These days, my happy memories are being filled with the little smiling face below. Babies have the amazing ability to show us pure joy in moments like these.

Image from Ishinomaki taken by Brad White

A few hours ago, I reread the post I wrote on March 12, 2011. Since I read it, I’ve been sitting here, my son sleeping in his crib, my husband and dog sleeping on the couch, remembering. I remember many things about 3.11.2011. Feelings of fear, confusion, uncertainty and sadness overwhelmed me that day and to an extent they still do today. With every video that replays the footage of the tsunami or the violent shaking of the earthquake, I am reminded that while that day was difficult for me, I am blessed to have my life still intact. There are so many whose lives are still being pieced back together. And some that will never again be whole.

Today marks one year since the earthquake and tsunami that caused so much destruction in northern Japan. In some ways, it seems that more than a year has passed, while in others it feels much shorter. Life has returned to normal here in Tokyo, with the same busy crosswalks, crowded trains, and bright lights. The aftershocks that were so frequent in the days and weeks after the quake are over, though each time the ground begins to tremble, even slightly, I can’t help but feel a little more uneasy than I did before March 11.

The fears about radiation in Fukushima are still very real for those who used to live in the vicinity of the power plant.There has been a huge amount of progress made in cleaning up the mess left behind by the tsunami up north, but it will be quite a while before things feel “normal” again.

I’ve been reading emails and comments that you all sent on that day and in the days that followed. Tears still well up in my eyes when I relive the care and concern that you sent to us from all over the world. Thank you for that. One of the amazing things about this community is the amount of support you give to people you’ve never met in person. It’s because of people like you that we (and by ‘we’ I mean everyone impacted) grow in strength after events such as these.

In addition to the memories of this day last year, I am reminded when I look at the sweet little fingers of my son, and feel the love of my husband’s hugs, that we are ever so blessed. No matter how busy life becomes or how many difficult moments move in and out of our lives, I will always be thankful to God for my family. And I will always feel immense sadness for those who lost loved ones on 3.11.2011.

Here’s the truth: Japan is just as beautiful, if not more so, as it was a year ago. There is still sadness and feelings of loss for many, but there are also beautiful reasons to celebrate life and survival. No, we should never forget what happened on that Friday afternoon one year ago. We should also never forget that it is through suffering that we find our strength. We find that beauty still surrounds us.

So don’t forget.

Please remember.

Riley is growing so fast. He has outgrown his first wave of clothing. As I put his newborn clothes away, I felt a little sad that time is already going so quickly. At the same time, I am loving the smiles, gurgles and wriggles that have come along over the past few weeks. There is always something new to love about this tiny human that has entered our lives.

While spending time with Riley is wonderful, I still value having time to take a breath and remember that I am still me. Those times are few and far between, but I try to make the most of them when possible. One of the best ways to feel like myself again is to cook. The first time I made a meal after having Riley, I felt like my joints were rusty. I couldn’t quite find the groove I once had in the kitchen. Each time I find myself putting together a meal (rather than having Brad pick up take-out on his way home from work) it feels more and more natural. Still, my time is limited. My recipe choices have therefore become much simpler to help make the most of my free time.

Ginger honey is a great example of something that I can easily make and have on hand for a daily dose of “me time”. My favorite thing to do is to add it to chamomile tea. Sitting down with my hands around a hot mug while I breathe in the relaxing aroma helps me get through the day. There is something so comforting about the warmth that ginger adds to both sweet and savory dishes. Lately, since life has gotten much crazier, I really appreciate simple things that can help me relax.

At the grocery stores here in Tokyo you can find huge jars of ginger honey with slices of fresh ginger suspended in the golden honey. I’ve kept this recipe simple by adding only sliced ginger, but you can bring it to a whole new level by adding lemon zest, cloves, cinnamon…anything you’d like. The honey keeps for about 2 weeks in the refrigerator, but if you seal it in an airtight jar, you can keep it for much longer on the shelf until you open it for use.

The honey makes a beautiful and unique hostess gift. Just put it in a small jar, tie a ribbon around the top and you’re all set! Homemade gifts really are the best, aren’t they?

Ginger Honey

Makes 1 cup

Make sure your ginger is very fresh. It should feel firm, not spongy when you purchase it. The outer skin should not be wrinkly either. This recipe makes 1 cup of honey but it is very easy to make larger batches based on what I have here. I like to leave the sliced ginger in the honey even after it has been infused to make the ginger flavor more intense. If you prefer a lighter flavor, simply pull out the ginger slices before storing.

1 cup honey (any kind will do)

2 pieces of fresh ginger root, each about 3 inches long, sliced lengthwise in 1/4″ slices

Optional: 2 or 3 cloves, 2 cinnamon sticks, zest from a lemon, orange or yuzu

Pour the honey into a small saucepan and add the ginger and other spices/flavorings if using. Over medium low heat, bring the honey to a slow and low simmer. Don’t get it too hot or it will not have the right consistency. Watching the honey carefully, allow the flavors to infuse for 5-10 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove the honey from the heat and allow it to cool. Transfer to a container for storage and allow it to sit for about 5 days before using. The honey will keep for approximately 2 weeks after the 5 day waiting period.

Drizzle over yogurt, use in your tea, OR wait for my next post on another way to utilize this delicious honey!

I’ve missed this space. It’s been almost 2 months and I feel like I need to slowly introduce myself to Tokyo Terrace all over again. While it has been difficult not spending as much time here, I can’t complain. I’ve been busy taking care of a very small, very important person. He has big blue eyes, soft, dark brown hair, and the sweetest little smile I’ve ever seen. I may be biased, but that’s a mother’s right.

After a long and somewhat trying recovery, I’m finally able to find time to share a little bit about what it was like to have a baby in Tokyo as a foreigner. I’m sure my experience is different from others, but it is worth sharing just the same and isn’t so different from stories I’ve heard from the United States. I’ll keep it brief and to the point…

I went into labor on Friday, December 2nd around 7:30am. My contraction were only 5 minutes apart…much closer than I had heard they would be. My husband called the doctor and he said that he would see us at the hospital. We called a taxi and made the long drive in the rainy rush hour traffic to the hospital. The 45 minute drive went quite smoothly because the driver phoned a friend to find out the best route to take to avoid traffic. An excellent move on his part.

We arrived at the hospital, checked in, and went to a small room designated for waiting things out until time for delivery. I was in that room for 17 hours. My contractions were about 2 or 3 minutes apart the entire time and were quite long. I had gone without any interventions for the entire time, but when my doctor said it would still be at least 3 more hours, I knew my body couldn’t handle it any longer. I was completely exhausted. So, I got an epidural. At that point, the doctor said that Riley had not dropped low enough for delivery. His heart rate was getting dangerously low and he didn’t seem to be making any progress, so an emergency C-Section was required.

At 1:21am, little Riley (or not so little…he was 9 pounds!) entered the world. I’ve never been so happy to hear crying in my entire life! He and I both made it through the operation without any complications, thank God. I spent 5 days recovering in the hospital. We had a private room where Brad could sleep, which was wonderful. He took such good care of Riley while I was confined to my bed for the first 2 days. The midwives and nurses spoke broken English, but enough that we understood most of what they said to us. They were so attentive and kind to us, making us feel right at home. It was difficult to leave the comfort of the hospital, where someone would come help at the push of a button and each meal was brought to us each and every day.

On the morning of the 6th day, we packed up to go home. Riley lost quite a bit of his birth weight and was only 7.8 pounds when we took him home, so gaining his birth weight back was an important goal for us. I can happily say that he has regained his birth weight plus some!

Riley is coming up on 2 months and has grown into a squirming, smiling, crying, eating baby boy. We are completely smitten, as new parents typically are. There have been a fair number of challenges, but nothing worth complaining about. We feel so lucky to have a healthy son in our lives.

We are gradually getting into the swing of life again, but it is still tricky to find the time to do things like blog and photograph new posts for you here. Right now, for example, I have a post ready but no photos. It is challenge figuring out how to organize the day when there isn’t yet a predictable schedule. But I am still here, hoping to be blogging just as I have for the past 3 years! Thanks to those of you who have waited patiently!

Introducing our baby boy…